
London's
Tea Gardens
An essay by William B Boulton
Visit
page one, two,
three, four,
five, six,
seven, eight,
nine, ten, eleven
South
London, however, was not without its open air attractions,
which had a flavour of their own, differing widely from
that of the places we have already considered. The attractions
of the South London districts were less simple and less
respectable. With an unconscious humour, many of them advertised
their mineral waters in competition with the spas of the
north; waters pumped from wells which would fill at a few
feet below the surface of what was practically the huge
marsh between Rotherhithe and Vauxhall; waters which Dr.
Rendle opines could have been nothing more than the mere
soakage of a swamp.
But
their main attractions were more or less feeble imitations
of the glories of Vauxhall, and their patrons were, speaking
generally, of a less innocent cast of mind and less easily
amused than the citizens who flocked northward to Islington
or Hampstead, or westward to Marylebone. One of the chief
of the South London group which shared with the peerless
Vauxhall the distinction of an approach by water, was Cuper's
Garden, on the south side of Waterloo Bridge, through the
very centre of which modern progress drove the Waterloo
Bridge Road. Cuper's Garden took its name from an old servant
of the Howard family, who, just at the end of the seventeenth
century, laid out a big patch of the marsh land with walks
and bowling-greens, contrived to give it some flavour of
dignity and distinction by dotting the place with mutilated
statues presented to him by his patron upon the demolition
of Arundel House, and opened the place as a public garden,
which had a measure of success for some sixty or seventy
years. At first music and dancing were "the chief attractions,
and 'prentices and sempstresses the chief of its patrons,
and there is a not untuneful set of verses which reflect
some of the simple joys of those early days, beginning:
"'Twas down in Cupid's Gardens
For pleasure I did go,
To see the fairest flowers
That in that garden grow."
But
under subsequent proprietors, notably one Ephrain Evans
and his widow, the place developed more upon the lines of
Vauxhall, with orchestras, fireworks, and illuminations,
and promenades under the trees, where "pretty young
women were accustomed to parade dressed like young men,
and wearing swords." Such diversions at times attracted
a deal of fashionable company, Horace Walpole and the Prince
of Wales among others, who gave distinction to the assembly
and occupation to the pickpockets.
It
was upon that rock of careless management that Widow Evans,
"a well-looking, comely person," finally split,
when the Act of 1752 established authorities for the"
better regulating of places of public entertainment,"
and licences became necessary for such as Widow Evans. Cuper's
Garden was refused a licence amidst the lamentations of
the widow, who was forced to retire upon the tavern and
a mere tea garden. The widow was apparently a woman of some
resource, for when her orchestra was thus silenced she advertised
her tea and the subdued attractions of the place, with the
remark that there still "remained some harmony from
the sweet enchanting sounds of the rural warblers."
Finch's
grotto was another South London garden in what is now the
Southwark Bridge Road, where the proprietor, Finch, inheriting
a house and garden, was not long in discovering the inevitable
spring of medicinal water, and made "a grotto and a
natural and beautiful cascade," aspired to the dignity
of season tickets, and returned a modicum of refreshment,
"half a pint of wine, cake, jelly, or cyder,"
in exchange for the one shilling admission. Stray royalties,
like the wild York and the silly Gloucester, would come
to listen to the music at Finch's, or perhaps to gaze at
the singers of such beauty and notoriety as Sophia Baddeley
of Drury Lane and Vauxhall, the heroine of many wicked stories
of those days.
The
present Spa Road, Bermondsey, takes its name from Bermondsey
Spa Gardens, where Mr. Keyse, the self-taught painter, enclosed
some acres of waste ground, discovered the usual spa, and
with pis pictures of green-grocers' stalls and butchers'
shops, his cheery personality, his cheery brandy, his lamps
in imitation of Vauxhall, his prima donnas and burlettas,
contrived to keep the place open for thirty yearS.
At
the Helena Gardens, Rotherhithe, the tradition of the at
fresco lingered perhaps latest of all. There singers warbled
and dancers capered, infant prodigies of six delighted or
bored audiences, and orchestras scraped until the year 1881.
At the Belvidere Gardens, just above Cuper's Garden, on
the Thames, the proprietor advertised" the choicest
river fish which they (his patrons) may have the delight
to see taken." The Flora Gardens, the Temple of Apollo,
and the Temple of Flora were classically named establishments
near what is now the Westminster Bridge Road, one with an
"Apollonian promenade and a pallid moon between brilliant
transparencies," and claiming credit for" the
superior excellencies of music and wines, and the chastity
and dignity of the place," all of which virtues and
advantages, however, did not avert the suppression of the
place by the magistrates in 1793. The Dog and Duck, St.
George's Spa, on the site of the present Bethlehem Hospital,
was an al fresco entertainment which had its origin in the
popular sport of duck hunting, ran through the whole gamut
of mineral water, tea gardens, musical entertainments, and
fireworks, and expired finally in an atmosphere of raffishness
and blackguardism.
To
conclude, and not to omit mention of any notable district
which was a centre of at fresco entertainment, we may notice
the little group of tea gardens for which Chelsea was famous:
Strombolo House, the beauty of whose fireworks enabled the
proprietor to charge the high price of half a crown for
admission, and anticipate the glories of the Crystal Palace
to-day; Jenny's Whim, with its bowling-green, cock-pit,
and ducking-pond, its alcoves and prim flower-beds, its
pond where mechanical mermaids and fishes rose at intervals
to the surface, and its recesses where Harlequin and Mother
Shipton started up when an unseen spring was trodden upon
by the visitor.
Carry
on to page eleven
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