Visit
page one, two,
three, four,
five, six,
seven, eight,
nine, ten,
eleven
Finally
Brompton had its Florida Gardens just west of Gloucester Road,
on the south side of the present Cromwell road, a rural retreat
with clipped hedges, terraces, and shady walks, "well
adapted for gallantry and intrigue," where Mr. Hiem grew
cherries, strawberries, and flowers, supplied "fresh
fruit every hour in the day, ice creams, wine, cyder, tea
and coffee," also "Berne Veckley, an elegant succedaneum
for bread and butter, and eat by the noblesse of Switzerland."
It
was among the delights of such places as these which we have
endeavoured to visit in the spirit that former generations
of Londoners took their modest pleasures and the life of a
couple of centuries of London displayed itself. As a conclusion
to our inquiry it may be of interest to speculate for a moment
on the causes of their decline. It would be easy to account
for the disappearance of the old London pleasure gardens by
pointing to the necessities in the matter of building sites
of a town which, since the first vogue of the alfresco entertainment,
has grown into a province - a province of bricks and mortar.
But
such a proposition would be merely plausible, because it is
certain that the London tea garden was moribund before cheap
corn created a vast population, and easy communications distributed
it in very unequal patches over a country where most interests
of beauty or enjoyment have been sacrificed to the exigencies
of an industrial commercialism. The decline of the London
al fresco, we believe, followed a change in the taste of the
people themselves, that taste itself an inevitable consequence
of an increasing population and an increasing prosperity.
The simple pleasures which satisfied the London of Charles
the Second left the London of George the Third unmoved, and
the pleasure-seeking citizen of the London of William the
Fourth had a soul altogether above the placid joys of the
London of George the Third. If you seek conviction on the
point, read Pepys and Horace Walpole, Harry Angelo, Pierce
Egan and Captain Gronow, and compare the different accounts
of the pleasures of the town by each of those recording angels.
It
is quite easy to trace this change of taste in the records
of any of the old places of amusement we have been considering.
There was always the increasing splendour of Vauxhall to be
reckoned with by the managers of them all, a sort of bull
amongst tea gardens, against which every frog as time went
on found it necessary to distend itself, and usually burst
in the process. And so we find the harmless dissipations of
the teapot and muffin gradually supplanted by fare of a headier
character, and the simple pleasures of the organ in the Long
Room, the ballad-singer, and the prim decorum of the promenade
yielding to joys of a fiercer kind and forgathering of a different
character, a change which led often to presentations by grand
juries and contests with magistrates, and a change invariably
ominous of the end. At Bagnigge Wells the Long Room became
a concert-room, where serio-comics gave" turns"
much as they do at the Pavilion to-day, and balloon ascents
in the garden became necessary to tickle the jaded palates
of spectators surfeited by promenades among clipped hedges
and fountains.
For
years before White Conduit House had closed its gates, forgotten
and unregretted, it had run through the whole changes of a
variety entertainment and the amusements of a country fair.
The fish-pond had been drained and filled in to make room
for a dancing saloon dedicated to Apollo, the healthy joys
of the early place, with its cricket and white bread, had
been exchanged for cheap fireworks, tight ropes, and conjurers
like Mr. Chabert, who swallowed arsenic, oxalic acid, boiling
oil and molten lead, and "entered a large heated oven
supported on four pillars and there cooked a leg of lamb and
a rump steak," which he obligingly divided among the
spectators.
Grand
galas there and elsewhere rendered necessary the attendance
of vigilant officers to prevent the entry of "persons
in dishabille." At the delightful and decorous Marylebone,
conjurers' entertainments and" Forges of Vulcan"
in pasteboard and red-fire took the place of Acis and Galatea
and "Where the bee sucks," and fetes champetres,
"which consisted of nothing more than a few tawdry festoons
and extra lamps," only moved more sophisticated audiences
to resent the extra charge of five shillings by breaking the
lamps and demolishing the scenery. The careers of the less
famous gardens of the south and the west were almost invariably
concluded in even less reputable circumstances, where the
conduct of the raffish audiences attracted by their debased
pleasures brought upon them the interference of the authorities.
There
were others, of course, which were merely absorbed by the
advancing wilderness of London, which planted gasometers in
their pleasant parterres and dried up their springs for ever.
Of these the elegists are topographers and antiquarians like
Mr. Hone and Mr. J. T. Smith, who witnessed and regretted
their departed glories. There is an almost touching description,
for instance, by Mr. Smith of his visit to Bermondsey Spa
in the days of its decline: Smith himself the only visitor,
with his solemn banter of the artist proprietor's pictures
of savoy cabbages and knuckles of veal, and the prima donna
in silks and rouge singing her solo according to contract
and bowing her thanks for the applause of the audience of
one.
Hone
will tell you of the forlorn aspect of St. Chad's Wells when
its waters remained undrunk and its patrons had sought their
pleasure elsewhere; of the "scene which the unaccustomed
eye might take for the pleasure-ground of Giant Despair;"
of "trees standing as if not meant to vegetate, and nameless
weeds straggling weakly upon unweeded borders." Such,
however, were only the lamentations on the short period of
the decline of a phase of social life which had fulfilled
a purpose and had amused a large proportion of the inhabitants
of London for two hundred years. It is pleasant sometimes
to think about the London al fresco in its prime, and the
delight and enthusiasm of Londoners in the simple pleasures
it afforded, an enthusiasm which surely inspired the poet
who sang the beauties of the New River in those haunting lines:
"Farewell, sweet vale, how much thou dost excel
Arno or Andalusia."
It is pleasant at times, as we say, to call their forgotten
pleasures to mind, to trace their forgotten boundaries, and
to hope perhaps for their resurrection in a translated form.
We may remember, if we choose, that London has received and
is receiving, in exchange, parks and open spaces on a splendid
scale, generously, and even royally administered in every
respect except that of provision for its hunger and thirst.
Mr. Pepys we feel convinced, could he revisit his beloved
town, would not be enthusiastic about the buns and ginger-beer
of, say, Regent's Park, or think that he had made in those
viands a good exchange for Shere's Spanish olio at the Mulberry
Garden. There are signs, however, that the taste for the alfresco
amongst Londoners is not extinct; the success of such enterprises
as the concerts at the Imperial Institute, at Earl's Court
and elsewhere, the breakfasting in Battersea Park connected
with the fashionable cycling of a few years ago, even the
much abused Summer Club of Kensington Gardens, may be taken
as signs of the times.